The 8km to Arzua passed quickly – another solitary walk apart from the short time that I caught up and overtook an American family. This is the fourth time I’ve walked from Arzua and it ended up being a reflective day as various memories were kindled. Nothing deep or especially meaningful, just a whole lot of gratitude.
Making a new memory outside the albergue where Jaala celebrated her 18th birthday…
What possessed me to buy a kilo each of yoghurt and muesli? As it got heavier and heavier on my back I kept reminding myself it was a good idea and I’ll be pleased tomorrow when I get to eat before walking and already have lunch organised too! Very useful on what I expect to be the second-longest walk of this Camino.
I saw things today I must have walked past before, but never noticed…a few times I’ve noticed that without the responsibility of looking after children as I walk, I am far more aware of my surroundings.
That’s probably a good thing from a safety point of view. A few people have commented that they feel very safe here and walk in places and at times that they would not at home.
I have had just one situation that made me uncomfortable. I do not believe I was in any danger and can think of a number of explanations for what happened.
It was just before sunrise on a day when I had set out without having breakfast. Directly ahead on the path was a little stone cottage looking very welcoming with an orange glow emanating from the window and open door. As I got closer I noticed an older man sitting on the stone bench beside the door having his morning cigarette. As is the custom, we greeted each other, and I proceeded to go inside for a Cola Cao. Mr Cigarette turned out to be the proprietor and he came and served me when he had finished his fag.
After about five minutes he closed the door and came and stood near my table. Most probably he was just keeping the rain out or feeling cold, but it didn’t stop me feeling uncomfortable. My mind went into overdrive, wondering if the other guys had left the albergue yet and how long it might be before they passed by, noticing an open window, checking where I’d put my poles….I had seen a Compostela on the wall, so I asked Mr Cigarette if it was his (now I had his name given that he claimed it was) and I got him talking about how many and which Caminos he had done. That gave me time to down my chocolate and then make an exit. I am certain there was absolutely no ill intent, and at the same time it seemed prudent to take note of the discomfort and remove myself from the situation.
But today was about remembering happy memories, admiring vegetable gardens (which I didn’t take any photos of) and putting one foot in front of the other.
The “buen camino” greeting has largely disappeared and people seem to be hurrying. Before I’d filled my pack with food I had been wondering about walking farther today – but in the end I stopped as planned and put my feet up for the afternoon in the hope of easing the soreness. I am clearly pushing the tendons to their limit – or maybe just beyond. But tomorrow will be Walking Day Number 59 and on WDN 60 I hope to finish,
SoloWalk2024 