12 June to Ligonde

I really hope I walk through a chestnut forest tomorrow so I can turn the spilt ink into a tree trunk.

Until today my ink setup has worked admirably. The little bottle has a magnet on the bottom and attaches to the bulldog clip – I just have to be careful to hold it upright, which has not been a problem. What I hadn’t counted on was a cute little black dog bounding up to lick the bottle.

The next hour was spent in cleanup mode – journal, bumbag, shirt, skirt. If only I hadn’t refilled the bottle yesterday!

It had been a morning of ups and downs – just physical ones, no emotional ones! Some straight stretches. Some pretty views. At times even peaceful (but mostly with quite a few others around – my favourites were a group of friends from Tenerife who didn’t speak a word of English. I always find it easier to bumble in Spanish when I know it’s the only option. They wanted to know if I knew Tenerife – all I had to say was “volcano” and I was accepted!! They had just started in Sarria yesterday and were full of enthusiasm – especially when we passed the mojón that was UNDER 80km. Groups walking together tend to talk a lot, and this one was no different, but one of the ladies fell into step next to me. For the sake of making conversation, I told her how special it was to walk with friends. She agreed AND confessed she wanted to walk alone in peace, so I turned around and used my poles to bar the path – for some reason that made me the funniest person around. It’s nice to be appreciated!)

I ended up at this little place well before noon, but my Achilles suggested it would be wise not to go on…

…besides there was a very warm welcome

There was on-street entertainment right outside the door too…

…plus plenty of people watching. There was a lovely garden to sit out in…

…and a great spot indoors out of the wind

There was also a movie before dinner – complete with popcorn, and then dinner in the garden

(By the way, this is very boring storytelling, sorry!!)

The best dinner so far.

Platters of meats and cheeses and olives and pickles and membrillo and peppers and apple….followed by lasagne and salad from the neighbour’s garden and finally Texan Sheet Cake with whipped cream and a biscoff cookie.

The evening finished with everyone gathered around the table, choosing a card that explained what had brought them to the Camino (each story told in both English and French so it took quite a while) and then another card to explain what change we might take away with us. There were – somewhat predictably – quite a few tears shed. These evenings of vulnerability are very special.