9 June to Samos

It’s so nice to hear guys walking in saying, “It was so beautiful today” and “Did the day feel like three parts to you? Downhill in the fog, green and then villages?”

They nailed it.

Knowing there was thick fog, I waited until after sunrise to leave.

I don’t usually have cheesecake for breakfast, but when it is the specialty made with local cheese, and you don’t have time to wait until dinner, what’s a girl to do?

By the time I came out of the bar (where all the locals had been complaining about how cold it was for June – 10 degrees) the fog was starting to lift.

The green was starting to kick in.

And the villages.

Some looked completely abandoned, but then there would be a little sign of life.

A lady in an apron and an old man were standing chatting by these buildings:

Lady went inside and I asked the man how many people live in the village. Six. He’s alone, the lady is also alone and four more old folks. The worst thing for him is that there is no fresh bread – because how can you run a bakery for six people? He told me about two who died recently, who found them, where they were (one in bed and the other I didn’t understand) Actually he talked for a good ten minutes and I didn’t understand most of it, but copied his facial expressions (disappointing, surprised, tut tut, shake head, questioning etc)

And then there was a perfectly tidy house:

The map on my phone wanted me to take a shortcut, which I started, but it was very overgrown and I had already seen these guys…

…and I didn’t want to add snakes to the mix. Besides, as I had climbed the hill I had noticed that the official route seemed to go through a village and I was eager for some food. So I backtracked and hoped there might be a bar. I was in luck. I had a hankering for some croquetas, so asked if they did them. I was in luck again.

The only problem with stopping to eat was that it meant I was pretty certain I would not make it to Samos by the time the bakery closed at 2, so I was getting used to the idea that dinner would be instant soup and cheese. Hold that thought. First we have to do a bit more climbing and the green gets insane.

Right as the monastery bell was tolling two, the monastery came into view. I imagined the baker locking up as I tripped down the hill. Imagine my surprise to stumble across a little shop that was open. It was one of those tiny ones jam-packed with tins of tuna and jars of chickpeas and packets of chips and batteries and washing powder and balls of string and bags of sweets and a box full of lettuces…and as luck would have it, some loaves of bread. I bought the smallest one I could, but knew I would still be eating it tomorrow.

Time to find the albergue’s entrance.

Hmmm. That wasn’t meant to happen. Ah well, Google other accommodations and feel luck really is on your side when the cheapest one is right across the street! In I went and asked if the monastery Albergue would be opening later.

No. If it says it’s closed, it’s closed, the hostel/bar proprietress assured me.

Do you have a free bed?

Yes.

But the conversation went no further as a customer came over and insisted it was not closed and would be opening in a moment. He pulled me by the arm to prove his point, and lo and behold, the hospitalero was just tearing off the closed sign and opening the door.

I decided if I was going to stay in the monastery it would be nice to take the tour. In some ways it was. At the same time there were some very disturbing murals.

Official Tour done, I then took Dutch Kiwi couple for a tour of the accomodation. I was about to tell them that there was room for 30 and it had almost filled up within an hour of opening. Another surprise! It had now almost emptied out. A rumour had started circulating that there were bedbugs here last night and so about twenty pilgrims had gone in search of other lodgings.

My rationale was simple – and may turn out to be flawed! I had already laid my sleeping bag out in the bed so any damage was potentially already done. Also…that the guy had bedbugs bites is not being questioned. That he slept here last night is also true enough. But it is possible those pesky bugs had hitched a ride in his backpack from an earlier Albergue and they might not have stayed here. Fingers crossed.

The tour didn’t take long – one large cold dormitory with bunks, an internal washing line and the kitchen (a microwave, a glass, a plate, a knife and a fork), with four toilets, showers and sinks and a clothes washing sink in a room at one end.

That done, DK couple went out in search of food and I decided that in the absence of a mug or bowl, a glass would be quite satisfactory for instant soup. Except that the microwave didn’t work. So I had cheese on bread. Given that monasteries used to give pilgrims soup and bread, and maybe some cheese, I’d have been better off in the Middle Ages…although there wouldn’t have been a hot shower then. (Of course I could have gone out for food, but having bought the bread, I wanted to start eating it – besides, I wanted to give my slightly overworked tendons a rest)

So for me the day was downhill fog, green and villages…plus monastery and one more thing: –

COWS:

The first ones I could hear, but not see through the fog. They sounded very close.

I could smell these ones ^^ before I heard them…and being curious, I had to poke my nose in. It was a complete sensory experience…the bit that surprised me was the warmth that made the air feel like a thick blanket just inside the door

The outside cows seemed much happier