21 May to Sahagún

How is it even possible to have packed so much into today?

I made a leisurely start, taking a good look at some of the buildings as I left Calzadilla de la Cueza.

I started off at my usual slow pace and was alone with just the chirping birds and cuckoos in distant woods on both sides for a good half hour.

Then a low hum appeared on my radar, somewhere behind me. As it got louder, I realised it was a noise being made by people. They were walking only a tiny bit faster than me, so it took a long time for the hum to reach me and then pass me. It was an older Korean couple taking it in turn to say Hail Mary’s – a lot of them. At least I think that’s what was happening.

Then there was a bit of a hill and for the first time I did not break my stride, but possibly even found a new gear and went powering up. It felt good to be walking strongly. The praying Koreans looked surprised as I flew past them.

A random building going in to Ledigos caught my eye

And leaving Ledigos I decided against the main route and followed blacked-out arrows, the old Camino

My main purpose was to see the dovecotes and I was not disappointed

I had a meeting planned in Moratinos, which must be one of the cutest hamlets along the way – what’s not to love about a yarn-bombed plaza?

A meeting? you ask. Yes. Since before we did our first Camino in 2012, I have belonged to an online Camino Forum. On this forum is a wide range of people, but only one, who lives in Moratinos. She has been particularly encouraging to me over the past year as I have delved deeper into writing. I wanted to meet her in person.

American-Moratinos-dweller was out walking the dogs when I arrived so I nipped back to the bodegas to do a wee sketch.

Magical.

After a chat that gave me things to think about as I walked on, I walked on.

I remembered sitting in the shade of this church with the children – today I was looking for warmth. And lunch.

I also remembered that the stretch after this church had felt particularly long.

Today was no different. At one point the Camino path takes you across the road away from the town that looks tantalisingly close. There’s good reason (to visit an ermita and the halfway monument), but I had a better reason to NOT cross the road and keep heading straight – the body was struggling and wanted the shortest route to the end!

It turned out to be an old Camino path and so didn’t feel like cheating after all!

As well as staying in this town in 2014…(here):

…I stayed at this Albergue/monastery at the end of my Camino from Madrid, and so it felt a bit like coming home. I hadn’t been planning on stopping here, but I’m glad I decided to push on.

I arrived pretty late (4:30), so just had time to nip across to the supermarket to buy something to contribute to the communal dinner before the 5pm coffee and chat that the Marist Brothers host. It’s a simple format – each person shares their name, country of origin and how they heard about the Camino. Then everyone gets to choose a card with a symbol on it that somehow describes their Camino, and they are invited to share. There were some very vulnerable answers shared – it was a gift to be part of.

Time for a very quick shower, while the usual afternoon thunderstorm raged outside, complete with hail this time, and then we raced around the corner to the chapel for mass and a pilgrim’s blessing.